Approachable food is good (artisanal sandos). Too approachable is bad (the return of the McRib).

Cotogna strikes the right balance. The sister restaurant to elegant Quince — opening right next door in Jackson Square tonight — may be dressed down, but it’s not overly casual.

Owners Lindsay and Michael Tusk combined rustic (the 1917 building’s exposed brick, white Jerusalem stone floors) with sleek (copper bar, long benches, slatted wood ceiling from Quince’s original Pac Heights incarnation). With 50 seats, it’s cozy but not cramped.

And though Quince serves some of the city’s most refined Italian, Cotogna relies on a spit and brick oven to turn out whole-roasted meats (pork with wild fennel and orange; rabbit, artichoke, and pancetta spiedini), zas, and homey dishes (papardelle with mascarpone and wild mushrooms; cornmeal pasta with stewed leeks, arneis, and cream). There are artisanal beers, craft cocktails, and Italian wines for $40.

We’re lovin’ it.

Cotogna, 490 Pacific Street, at Montgomery Street (415-775-8508).

Photo: Courtesy of Cotogna

	Caught a bad case of the winter chills? Cozy up beneath the faux suede vests, nautical beanies, blanket coats, and above-elbow gloves on our holiday site.

	Up to 50% off Matisse Having a hard time finding boots actually made for walking? Matisse is a master at crafting them. Snag cowboys, booties, and even clogs for up to 50% off today on Swirl.