There’s an ancient fondue saying: Woman who loses bread in pot must kiss every man at table.

Make dinnertime a little racier by giddyapping over to Fondue Cowboy, opening in SoMa tomorrow. The restaurant bucks tradition with modern versions of the melting cauldron of cheesy goodness.

Dip different breads or crisp veggies into the Spicy Cheddar (beer base, twelve-month aged cheddar, Emmentaler, oven-roasted tomatoes, garlic) or Spanish (white wine base, manchego, Emmentaler, Mt. Tam, roasted red peppers, olive tapenade). Go sweet with a dessert version like milk chocolate laced with orange puree and ginger oil.

The decor is more urban Western than Swiss chalet (think wood, brown leather, and a mural of our favorite Hollywood cowboy, Clint Eastwood). Go ahead, make your night.

Fondue Cowboy, 1052 Folsom Street, between 6th and 7th Streets (415-431-5100 or fonduecowboy.com).

Photo: Darwin Bell / Courtesy of Fondue Cowboy

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