And on the Monday, Pulino’s opened.
The diners arrived for breakfast and lunch and saw the bustling Bowery space had been transformed with decorative bricks, checkerboard flooring, and subway tiles. And it was good.
And, lo, the wood-burning oven in the corner churned out thin pizzas and roasted meats and fish under the watchful eye of chef Nate Appleman, an impish, tattooed San Francisco import. And the people ordered Campari cocktails with names like Afternoon in Naples, roasted sunchokes with red cabbage, bruschette by the kilo, and panna cotta. And it was very good.
And there was Keith McNally modestly lording over it all, assuring the good people that brunch would begin this weekend and dinner on Friday, March 26.
And they flocked to the promised land and ate heartily and lived happily.
Pulino’s, 282 Bowery, at East Houston Street (212-226-1966).
Photo: Janelle Jones