In New York, where “queen-size bedrooms” have the dimensions of an actual mattress and subway rush hour makes you jealous of sardines, we’ve learned to be wary of “cozy” restaurants downtown.
Give yourself space at L’Apicio, a sprawling wood- and wrought iron-filled Italian restaurant from team Dell’Anima and L’Artusi, open tomorrow.
Sink into deep leather sofas with clear Negronis and spritzes (Aperol, grapefruit-infused vodka, oregano, citrus bitters) mixed by Joe Campanale (Anfora). The full menu is available barside, so you can stay put for charred octopus with pepperoni, nubby fregola, and lemon and small plates of sunchokes and arancini sausage.
Once seated (aim for the banquettes near the open kitchen), order chef Gabe Thompson’s pastas: rich sweetbread- and mascarpone-stuffed pockets with Parm, long tajarin with porcini and thyme, and tube garganelli with lamb Bolognese. Family-style polenta boards, duck risotto, and EV-friendly vegan options are also available.
Lest we forget, the panna cotta is spectacular.
No quotes necessary.
L’Apicio, 13 East 1st Street, between Bowery and Second Avenue (212-533-7400 or lapicio.com).
Photo: Jordan Blumberg / DailyCandy