No berries. No gelatin. No more than a tablespoon and a half of sugar. Such is the Tartist’s way.

She says no to trips to the farmers market unless all fruit tree resources (friends and Twitter followers) have been exhausted. Yet her ascetic methods bear a slice of perfection.

Baking each ten-inch dessert to order from a secret location in Santa Monica, Xárene Eskandar skillfully pairs unexpected notes (saffron, cardamom, orange blossom water) with a single fruit artfully arranged atop light, creamy filling and a rich, flavorful crust. (You’d have high standards, too, if your average breakfast growing up was one of mom’s freshly baked croissants.)

Aside from chocolate (the one that started it all), Eskandar works only with the absolute freshest produce. So for now, jockey for seasonal offerings like apple, pear, persimmon, pumpkin, and quince.

One bite and you’ll become a patron of the tarts.

Available by phone order (310-591-8130) or e-mail tartist.la@gmail.com, $38-$52. For more information, go to tartist.la.

Photo: Christopher O’Leary

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