Some days, a pint of any beer and a basket of stale chips will do.

Other days, you want Waterloo & City, executive chef Brendan Collins’s new take on the European gastropub, where the beer is Pinkus organic pilsner from Germany and the fries are triple cooked.

The restaurant and lounge (inside what was once a greasy spoon-type diner) is done up with thrift store scores, plush banquettes, leather bar stools, and ironic wallpaper depicting scenes of London’s rougher side in classic toile style.

Whether you park it indoors or out, the entire menu of unfussy fare is at your disposal. Offerings change as Collins sees fit; right now there’s arctic char with artichokes and pearl onions, pot roast with potato puree, and braised short rib pizza (remember his short ribs from Palihouse?). For drinks, choose from wine pairings, classic cocktails, and 35 beers by the bottle or on tap.

Stay tuned for The Shop, an adjoining deli and larder showcasing house-cured meats, specialty butcher cuts, and imports like aged balsamic and rare truffles (for when average truffles just won’t do).

Waterloo & City, 12517 Washington Boulevard, between South Centinela and Boise Avenues, Culver City (310-391-4222).

Photo: Courtesy of Waterloo & City