We’re starting a rumor: Governor, a new restaurant opening Thursday from chef Brad McDonald and the Gran Electrica/Colonie team, is scandalously good.
You won’t believe the fried blowfish tails, poached oyster toasts, and pisco honey cocktails at the bar nor the cheeky wallpaper of Robert Gair (cardboard box inventor/the restaurant’s namesake) in compromising positions (dis)gracing the loo.
Once seated (ask for the mezzanine), order gold bar squash gazpacho with fried zucchini flowers and Mettowee goat cheese followed by juicier-than-gossip sweetbreads, broccoli, and pickled cauliflower topped with smoked ham hollandaise. Beef tongue (braised a day and a half) with bone marrow popovers will have yours wagging.
Pinky swear not to tell: McDonald keeps it on the DL (delicious and local) by using whole animals (sea robin filet one night equals fish bone stock the next), house-churned butter, foraged produce, and infused vinegars (elderflower, ginger).
We trust his secret’s safe with you.
Governor, 15 Main Street, between Plymouth and Water Streets, Dumbo (718-858-4756).
Photo: Jordan Blumberg / DailyCandy