Is it just us, or is making babies so hot right now?

Look to the newest kid in town for proof: Balena opened yesterday in the old Landmark space.

The love child of The Bristol and Boka Group (Girl & the Goat, GT Fish & Oyster), Balena serves unfussy, exceptional Italian food, courtesy of Bristol chef Chris Pandel and pastry guru Amanda Rockman.

Rustic, cozy, and elegant, the space has sky-high ceilings, burned-out neon lights, terra-cotta tiles, and breathtaking private dining rooms.

After an amaro-spiked cocktail, tear into just-baked bread and bagna cauda. Move on to fresh pastas (spaghetti with tomato fondue, tarajin with pork ragu), squash blossom and ricotta brick-oven pizza, charred quail with hazelnut butter, and Tuscan kale salad.

For dessert, affogato and yeasted donuts and addictive gelato.

Sheer gene-ius.

Balena, 1633 North Halsted Street, between North Avenue and Willow Street (312-867-3888 or balenachicago.com).

Photo: Jeff Kauck / Courtesy of Balena