Try as we might to avoid becoming our parents, we often end up resembling them.
Or, in Abraham Conlon and Adrienne Lo’s (X-marx) case, cooking like them.
The couple’s highly anticipated Logan Square restaurant, Fat Rice, serves dishes undeniably inspired by heritage and tradition.
Portuguese, Southeast Asian, and Chinese influences color the cozy interior, with Eastern curiosities (pigs and roosters represent Lo and Conlon’s birth years) and artful images of Lo’s grandparents. An open kitchen makes it feel like home.
Flavorful, festive dishes — and presentation — evoke family dinners. Snack on pickles (peanuts, peppery tofu) and sip white port to start. Then tuck into linguica (smoked Portuguese sausage) and shaking chili whitefish, fiery with padron peppers. The Fat Rice hot pot, swimming with land and sea proteins, is a must.
As is the pineapple upside-down cake, topped with Xeres vinegar caramel cream.
Fat Rice, 2957 West Diversey Avenue, at Sacramento Avenue (773-661-9170 or eatfatrice.com).
Photo: Courtesy of Fat Rice