In a city drowning in dining destinations, we’re left fishing for standout sushi.

Get hooked on Kai Zan, West Town’s new Japanese joint.

Twin brothers Melvin and Carlo Vizconde’s (Kamehachi, Kyoto) 22-seat BYOB feels a little Seattle, a bit San Fran with subway tiles, curiosities hanging from hooks, and colorful ceramics.

Plates are almost too pretty to eat: Citrus-glazed salmon curls around creamy scallops; grilled shiitake mushrooms are skewered and bathed in ponzu; maguro pearls are miniature flavor towers; even a humble unagi roll wows, unfettered by cloying sweetness.

Specials like velvety chutoro need nothing more than a sliver of fresh ginger. A hefty spider dragon roll achieves textural nirvana.

End with a heaping bowl of red bean-topped green tea ice cream.

If you care to go overboard.

Kai Zan, 2557½ West Chicago Avenue, at Rockwell Street (773-278-5776 or facebook.com/kaizanchicago).

Photo: Courtesy of Kai Zan