You’d never call Kristine Subido chicken.

The chef recently left her cushy gig at the W Chicago – Lakeshore to open Pecking Order, a restaurant that pays homage to her Filipino roots.

Subido marinates hormone- and antibiotic-free cluckers using a generations-old recipe of cane sugar, tamari, garlic, and vinegar. Birds are served every which way: twice fried, basted and grilled, stuffed with lemon grass and ginger then slow cooked on the rotisserie. Original sauces (banana ketchup, garlic chili vinegar, chicken liver gravy, calamansi) add sweet heat to every bite.

Ruffle feathers with flavor-packed sides: grilled sweet corn with lime mayo, coconut adobo rice arancini, Pinoy (a Filipino version of the Scotch egg), and Melinda’s (Subido’s mom) famed pickles (shaved jicama, green papaya, carrot, ginger, daikon).

For dessert: shaved ice or whatever Melinda feels like making.

In other words, she wings it.

Pecking Order, 4416 North Clark Street, between Montrose and Sunnyside Avenues (773-907-9900 or peckingorderchicago.com).

Photo: Dorling Kindersley / Getty Images