They say the French are a fickle lot. Must be all that chocolate. Or having to maintain their skinny women rep.

Not that you should hold that against their cuisine. Especially not at French American Brasserie, Fabrice Vergez’s reincarnation of his old stomping grounds, the tried-and-true Lenox landmark Brasserie Le Coze.

The menu is loyal to its former self: Standards like Roquefort and niçoise salads, foie gras, and confits complement new entrees like steaks and chops.

And oh, la, la the updates he did make. A larger space, canopied rooftop patio (opening this summer), hand-painted ceiling, and signature cocktails (try the eponymous Fab, a mix of champagne and raspberry puree) will have you speaking their language soon enough.

Saving room for it all won’t be such a foreign idea.

French American Brasserie, 30 Ivan Allen Junior Boulevard, Downtown (404-266-1440 or fabatlanta.com).